New lead time on all new builds 4-6 weeks et al
New lead time on all repairs 1-2 weeks et al, builds will take precedence over repairs
We offer Repair-Upgrades, Kit Builds and Deep Clean services
1) Do you have a kit you purchased, and do not have the tools and or time to put it together?
I can do it for you. I have 2 ways to offer, 1) my labor only or,
2) labor and I supply all the parts for your kit necessary to assemble your complete AK to include 922r compliant parts. Click here to see full explanation and pricing.
I will not build your AK or anyone else's with 80% receivers. First of all, It is illegal for me to complete your receiver, click here So please, DO NOT ASK
I will not build your AK kit if you finished your 80%er to 100% to California compliance's, reason is, it's been my experience that if you are only one millimeter off of any hole or bend, your entire receiver will be off, making my job more difficult .
So please, DO NOT ASK.
One service I do not offer anymore In California especially, is cutting barrels to 14.5" and pin & weld a 2" or more compensator's, although legal to do, I do not offer it any more
2) Although Ak's are very dependable and will operate under the dirtiest of conditions, a clean AK, operates better and more efficient.
I offer a deep clean service- I disassemble the entire AK inspect all parts and springs replace any worn parts I believe need replacement, I will contact you with my recommendations for your for approval.
1) Inspect the firearm top to bottom
2) Completely soak in a hot de-greaser I made just for AK's.
3) Reinspect the firearm check head spacing and all parts. Make any necessary repairs or replace parts? notify you first.
4) Assemble firearm, minor polish of the action, and lube, unless you request a tuned action.
5) Test fire and bore clean.
6) Your AK is ready.
HOW, WHY and WHERE to lubricate your AK . By design, it is extremely simple, and the lubrication process is easy. Note, that here in US our shooting community is obsessed with over lubricating (OIL) firearms. In reality, the AK, doesn’t really have to be clean more often than every 1000 rounds and deep cleaned at least every 8 to 10,000 rounds. However, you should get into the habit of light cleaning your AK after every shoot,
especially if your using corrosive ammo. Then you should deep clean your weapon ASAP to prevent rust from developing, this is where a chromed lined barrel is a good thing to have, but going back to our lubrication process.
In California there is no need for over oiling any firearm, remember oil or lube is our friend and are like very strong magnets, outside dirt and gun powder attach with a vengeance, and can cause your AK to malfunction ie.
This is what I call the 4 F's
Failure to Feed, Failure to Fire, Failure to Eject,
Failure to Extract
ALSO causing, short stroking and or a clogged gas block, dirty barrel all caused by over oiling along with dirt and burnt powder build up.
In California and other ares where it is hot, dry and not humid less oil is needed, especially an AK variant that is almost unstoppable. I highly recommend using a high friction type lithium grease. Why grease and not oil, oil will drip into other ares of your weapon as you use it, areas you can't get to, to, grease will stay put, BUT, it will still collect dust out side dirt and burnt powder, like a magnet to metal.
NOTE: Maintenance tips
DO NOT and I repeat DO NOT put oil or grease inside of the firing pin chamber, the firing pin should always be dry and free moving. You'd be surprised of how many people come in with the complaint that they are getting light strikes on their primers. When I check for causes, one of the 4 F's Failure to fire, I check the bolt for a broken firing pin, if it's ok, then I check the firing pin movement, it has drag to it, then I know what the culprit is, too much oil and brunt powder. This is why your AK or any other firearm should be deep cleaned approximately 5 to 8000 rounds or 1 year which every comes first, especially if you haven't shot your firearms in 12 months or more and or winterized it.
Here's what happens when you oil ares you can not get into to clean on a normal clean job.
Oil that is old and not cleaned out act like gum better yet the consistency of maple syrup, old oil over time it's properties break down and become the consistency of maple syrup or like cosmoline, therefore either your firing pin has drag to it or just wont move.
This is one of the main reasons to deep clean your AK on a regular basis, especially if you used oil that drips into ares you cannot get to, like your bolt or trigger group.
I offer a free how to maintain your AK class, in which I teach you how to disassemble your entire AK and your bolt to clean and inspect your firing pin and other areas you can't get to on a normal clean. This is just one of many things you will learn in that class-sign up click here.
Areas to add a LIGHT amount of grease are all high friction areas, bolt shaft only, rails, top of your hammer and tangs (the area that contacts the bolt carrier), bottom of the carrier top lips of the receiver (see below diagrams) and yes, always use your favorite oil or silicone rag to wipe the outside of your firearm and inside the barrel to help prevent rust ( a few drops are all you need) oh yes, the inside of your barrel is the only time to use oil, not grease... My personal type oil is break free, because it cleans as it lubricates your firearm.